Why the Amalfi Coast Isn't Just for the Rich
The Amalfi Coast has a reputation for €1,000-a-night hotels and celebrity sightings. But dig a little deeper and you'll find affordable B&Bs, family-run trattorias, and public transport that connects the entire coast for less than a pizza. I spent five days there last June and averaged $138 per day—including accommodation, meals, and a boat trip. Here's how.
Sleep Cheap: Where to Stay Without Blowing Your Budget
Skip Positano and Amalfi for sleeping. Instead, base yourself in Praiano or Minori. In Praiano, I found a double room with a sea-view balcony at Hotel Smeraldo for €85 per night in low season (April–May). Minori is even cheaper: B&Bs like Casa Vacanze Il Giardino start at €65. Both towns are on the SITA bus route, so you can day-trip to the famous spots. Book 3–4 months ahead for the best rates.
Eat Like a Local: Meals for Under €15
Restaurants in Positano charge €25 for pasta. Head inland or to less touristy towns. In Praiano, Trattoria San Gennaro serves a huge plate of scialatielli ai frutti di mare for €12. In Amalfi, grab a panino with prosciutto and mozzarella from Panificio Pasticceria for €5. For dinner, try Ristorante Pizzeria Il Ritrovo in Minori—pizza margherita for €6.50. Supermarkets like Decò are great for picnic supplies: fresh bread, local cheese, and tomatoes for under €10.
Getting Around: Buses, Ferries, and Your Feet
The SITA bus is your best friend. A single ride costs €1.30–€2.20 depending on distance. A 24-hour pass is €7.20 (buy at tabacchi shops). Ferries are faster but pricier: Positano to Amalfi is €8 one-way. For the best value, take the bus along the coast road and walk between towns where possible. The Path of the Gods hike from Bomerano to Nocelle is free and offers the best views on the coast.
Free and Cheap Things to Do
You don't need to pay for a beach club. Spiaggia Grande in Positano is public (though crowded). For a quieter swim, head to Spiaggia di Fornillo—also free. In Ravello, the Villa Cimbrone gardens cost €7, but the view from the public terrace near the Duomo is almost as good and free. The Emerald Grotto costs €6, but you can skip it if you're on a tight budget. Best free activity: hiking the Valle delle Ferriere from Amalfi to Pontone.
Sample Daily Budget (Per Person)
Accommodation (double room, shared): €42.50. Breakfast (cappuccino + cornetto): €3. Lunch (panino or pizza): €6. Dinner (pasta + water): €12. Transport (bus day pass): €7.20. Activities: €5. Total: €75.70 (about $82). Add a ferry trip or a paid attraction and you're still under $150. My actual spend averaged $138 because I splurged on one boat tour to Capri (€45).
When to Go and What to Book Ahead
May and September are ideal: warm weather, fewer crowds, and lower prices. July–August is peak season—avoid if you're on a budget. Book accommodation at least 3 months in advance. For SITA buses, buy tickets at tabacchi before boarding; you can't buy on board. Ferries sell out, so reserve online if you're traveling in summer. And always carry cash—many small places don't take cards.