Why Lisbon, and Why 72 Hours?
Lisbon is compact, hilly, and full of character. You can see a lot in three days without rushing. The city is also cheap compared to other Western European capitals—expect to spend around €60–80 per day on food, transport, and entry fees. This itinerary focuses on the historic center, but I've included a few detours to neighborhoods most tourists miss.
Day 1: Alfama and the Castle
Start in Alfama, the oldest district. Walk up to Castelo de São Jorge (€10 entry) early to beat the tour groups. The view from the castle walls is worth the climb. Then get lost in the narrow streets below. Stop for a bifana (pork sandwich) at A Casa do Bifana in the nearby Baixa—€3.50 and the best in town. End the day at Miradouro de Santa Luzia for sunset. It's free, and you'll see why everyone raves about the golden light.
Day 2: Belém and the Pastéis
Take the 15E tram to Belém (€1.50 single). Visit the Jerónimos Monastery (€10) and the Belém Tower (€6). Both are UNESCO sites, but the real reason you're here is Pastéis de Belém. The original pastel de nata factory has been baking since 1837. Go before 11am to avoid the line. A box of six costs €6.90. Skip the touristy riverside restaurants and walk 10 minutes to Rua de Belém for lunch at Tenfold—great local petiscos (Portuguese tapas).
Day 3: Príncipe Real and a Food Market
Spend your last day in Príncipe Real, Lisbon's trendiest 'hood. Start at the Mercado de Campo de Ourique (open daily, but best for lunch). It's less chaotic than Time Out Market and has better prices. Try the grilled sardines at O Celeiro—€12 for a plate. After lunch, walk to Jardim do Príncipe Real for a rest under the massive cedar tree. Then explore the boutiques on Rua Dom Pedro V. If you're up for a climb, the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara has a killer view of the castle.
Where to Stay (and Where to Avoid)
Stay in Baixa or Chiado for convenience—you can walk everywhere. Expect to pay €80–120 per night for a decent double in a guesthouse. Alfama is charming but noisy at night. Avoid the areas near Avenida da Liberdade; they're pricier and full of chain hotels. For a budget option, check out the LX Factory area in Alcântara—it's a bit out of the center but has cool hostels and a creative vibe.
Getting Around: Tram, Metro, or Walking?
Buy a Viva Viagem card (€0.50) and load it with rides. The metro is efficient, but the real charm is walking—just wear comfortable shoes. The iconic Tram 28 is a tourist trap; you'll wait 30 minutes and be packed like sardines. Instead, take the 12E tram, which runs a similar route through Alfama with fewer crowds. If you're tired of hills, use the Elevador de Santa Justa (€5.50 round trip) for a quick lift from Baixa to Bairro Alto.
Final Tips: Book Ahead and Eat Local
Book your castle and monastery tickets online in advance—you'll skip the ticket line. For dinner, avoid restaurants on the main squares. Walk two blocks off the beaten path and look for places full of Portuguese speakers. Try a 'prato do dia' (daily special) for €8–10. And don't leave without trying ginjinha, a sour cherry liqueur—€1.50 a shot at A Ginjinha in Rossio. It's a Lisbon rite of passage.